Cooling, Vacuum & Transmission

Keep your engine's supporting fluid systems running cool, sealed, and leak-free. This collection covers three distinct hose types your engine bay depends on outside the fuel system — each built with a different material and pressure rating for a specific job, so picking the wrong one can mean swelling, collapsing, or premature failure.

Shop by Hose Type

  • Vacuum Hose: Silicone construction rated up to 130 PSI burst pressure, engineered to resist collapsing under negative pressure. Used for PCV lines, boost/vacuum routing, and emissions components. See our full Vacuum & Specialty Hoses range.
  • Heater & Radiator Hose: EPDM rubber built to SAE 20R3 Class D-2, rated to 100 PSI and up to 257°F, for stable coolant flow between the engine, radiator, and heater core. Browse more in Cooling & Transmission Hoses.
  • Transmission Oil Cooler Hose: CPE fiber-reinforced construction rated to SAE J1532 and up to 250 PSI, purpose-built for automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Unlike coolant hose, it resists swelling from petroleum-based fluids. Pair it with a Transmission Oil Cooler for a complete cooling setup.

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FAQs about Cooling, Vacuum & Transmission

What's the difference between a vacuum hose, a heater hose, and a transmission cooler hose?

They're built for completely different jobs and aren't interchangeable.

Vacuum hose is designed to resist collapsing under negative pressure and typically only sees air or fuel vapor. Heater/radiator hose carries hot engine coolant and is rated for moderate pressure (around 100 PSI) and sustained heat.

Transmission cooler hose is built to handle high-pressure automatic transmission fluid (ATF) — it needs oil-resistant construction (like CPE) so it doesn't swell or come apart under hydraulic pressure.

Yes, on vehicles with vacuum-modulated automatic transmissions, a cracked, loose, or leaking vacuum line to the modulator can cause harsh or erratic shifting, delayed engagement, or fluid getting drawn into the engine's intake. Always inspect the vacuum hose connected to the modulator when diagnosing shifting problems before assuming the transmission itself has failed.

Match the inside diameter (ID) of your factory hose, most silicone vacuum lines run from 1/8" to 5/16", heater/radiator hoses commonly range from 5/16" to 1", and transmission cooler lines are typically 5/16" to 5/8". If you're unsure, measure the old hose or check your vehicle's service manual before ordering.

Yes. Our transmission cooler hose (250 PSI, SAE J1532 rated) is commonly used in LS swaps and custom transmission cooling setups, while the heater/radiator hose line is popular for engine cooling system restorations on classic and performance builds. Always verify the pressure and temperature rating against your application before installing. Pairing this hose with a dedicated transmission oil cooler will further improve cooling efficiency on high-load builds.

A cooling system naturally creates negative pressure (vacuum) as coolant contracts after the engine shuts off. Normally, the radiator cap's one-way valve equalizes this by letting coolant flow back from the overflow tank. If the cap or overflow hose is faulty, that vacuum has nowhere to go and pulls the radiator or heater hose inward, causing it to collapse.

A worn-out hose that's lost its structural integrity is also more likely to collapse under this vacuum. Replacing a soft, aged hose, along with checking the radiator cap, usually resolves the issue.

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