Racing Fuel Cell & Accessories

Shop EVIL ENERGY automotive fuel cell tanks, auxiliary fuel tank solutions, complete fuel tank kits and fuel tank accessories for performance enthusiasts and custom vehicle builders. Our lightweight aluminum aftermarket fuel tanks are available in 1–20 gallon capacities for street, drift, off-road, racing and custom car fuel tank installations. Choose a standalone aluminum tank or a complete fuel tank and accessories package with selected pump, filter, regulator, hose, fitting, level-sender and mounting options. Components vary by kit.

Fuel Cell Product Options

EVIL ENERGY offers auxiliary fuel tank products ranging from standalone aluminum fuel tanks and plumbing kits to complete fuel-delivery systems. Choose by fuel tank capacity, fuel type, pump requirement, hose material and fitting size.

Why Choose an EVIL ENERGY Fuel Cell Kit?

  • All‑in‑one car fuel tank kits include fuel cell for sale, high‑flow pump, dual filters, adjustable regulator, level sender, fuel lines, fittings and mounting brackets to simplify part selection.
  • Lightweight 1060-H24 aluminum fuel tanks offered in 1‑20 gallon capacities for street, drift, off‑road and motorsport builds, meeting varied space and range demands.
  • Provides CPE, PTFE and antistatic PTFE fuel‑line options in various AN sizes for different fuel types.

Verify tank dimensions, fuel compatibility and system specifications before purchase.

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Choose the Right EVIL ENERGY Fuel Cell

EVIL ENERGY provides two shapes of aftermarket fuel cells: the cube fuel cell and rectangular fuel tanks. Both options work for high‑performance racing, drift and off‑road builds. Choose the cube fuel cell if you need built‑in anti‑slosh foam. Go with the rectangular fuel tanks when you have narrow, low‑profile installation space. Note that rectangular fuel tanks do not include internal anti‑slosh foam, and PTFE seals and PTFE fuel lines are required for E85, methanol, and ethanol fuel applications.

EVILENERGY FUEL CELL FITMENT TOOL

Fuel Tank Capacity & Size Calculator

Enter the maximum space available in your vehicle to estimate rectangular fuel tank capacity and find an EVILENERGY aluminum fuel cell that fits. Measurements may be entered in inches or centimeters.

Available installation space

Measure the clear space, not the old tank. Product matching checks the tank body in every 90° orientation.

Before ordering: Confirm the product drawing and leave extra room for mounting tabs, the filler neck, AN inlet/outlet fittings, hose bends and service access. Dimensions are approximate: ±0.2 in / ±5 mm.
How does this fuel tank dimensions calculator work?

It converts a rectangular space into cubic volume, US gallons and liters, then compares all possible 90° orientations with the published body dimensions of EVILENERGY 1 to 20 gallon fuel cells.

Fuel Cell Related Articles & Videos

FAQs about Racing Fuel Cell & Accessories

Fuel cell vs. fuel tank: what are the differences?

A auxiliary fuel cell is a purpose-built fuel storage unit designed for performance, racing, off-road, or custom-build applications, while a factory fuel tank is a stamped-steel or molded-plastic part designed for one specific vehicle model and daily commuting.

Key differences:

  • Construction: Fuel cells are typically made from aluminum, steel, or high-strength composite, giving them higher burst/impact strength than a factory tank.
  • Fit: Fuel cells are usually "universal fit" — you mount them into custom locations (trunk, bed, chassis bay), whereas a factory tank is molded to fit one specific vehicle.
  • Internal features: Many fuel cells include anti-slosh foam to reduce fuel movement and vapor buildup, plus a fill plate, vents, and mounting flange designed for aftermarket fuel systems.
  • True racing/competition fuel cells (SFI/FIA-certified) also include a flexible internal bladder that absorbs impact and helps contain fuel in a crash — this is what separates a certified "safety fuel cell" from a simple aluminum tank.

For the right use case, yes. An auxiliary tank is worth it if you regularly deal with:

  • Long-distance driving or towing, where stock fuel range isn't enough between stops
  • Off-road, overlanding, or remote-area travel, where fuel stations are far apart or nonexistent
  • Work trucks covering large routes or job sites where downtime for refueling costs money
  • Fuel price flexibility — carrying extra fuel lets you fill up where prices are lower instead of wherever you happen to be running low

It's less worth it if you mostly drive short, local trips with easy access to gas stations — in that case, the added weight, reduced bed space, and installation cost may outweigh the benefit.

Before buying auxiliary fuel tank, confirm capacity needs (how many extra miles you actually need), whether your fuel type requires a pump-fed or gravity-fed setup, and whether the kit includes the fittings, lines, and level sender you'll need for a clean install.

Lifespan depends on the type of fuel cell:

  • SFI/FIA-certified competition bladder cells have a defined service life because the bladder material itself ages. SFI Spec 28.3 (Competition Fuel Cell Bladder) requires recertification every 5 years, and FIA FT3-certified bladders carry a 5-year validity from the date of manufacture (some manufacturers offer a short recertification extension if requested before expiration). After that, the bladder must be inspected, recertified, or replaced — this is a safety requirement, not just a suggestion, for sanctioned racing.
  • Solid aluminum fuel cells (no bladder) — like EVIL ENERGY's fuel cell gas tanks — don't have a bladder aging clock, so the tank body itself can last many years of service under normal conditions. The parts that do wear over time are the anti-slosh foam (which should be inspected periodically and replaced if it degrades or compacts) and the level sender and fittings/seals, which are wear items on any fuel system.

Practical takeaway: for a street/drift/drag/off-road build, a well-maintained aluminum fuel cell can outlast several seasons of use; for sanctioned competition requiring SFI/FIA certification, plan on a bladder recertification or replacement roughly every 5 years regardless of how much you've used it.

Yes. But material compatibility is the deciding factor, not just the tank itself.

E85 (85% ethanol) is not corrosive to metal on its own, but it is hygroscopic — it absorbs water readily, and water-contaminated ethanol can form mild organic acids that attack unprotected aluminum, zinc, brass, and copper over time. It also degrades some rubber and standard nylon fuel line materials.

What this means for your setup:

  • Tank body: Aluminum fuel cells are generally fine with E85 as long as fittings/hardware are corrosion-resistant (anodized or stainless where possible) and the tank is kept full or empty (not partially full) during long-term storage to reduce condensation.
  • Fuel lines matter as much as the tank: EVIL ENERGY fuel cell kits are E85/ethanol/methanol compatible when paired with PTFE fuel line — PTFE resists ethanol degradation. CPE (rubber-based) fuel line is not recommended with E85, methanol, or high-ethanol blends, as it can swell, degrade, or leak over time.
  • Competition bladder cells: If you're running a true SFI/FIA-certified bladder fuel cell, confirm with the manufacturer that the bladder compound is rated for high-ethanol fuel — not all bladder materials are E85-safe, even if they're fine with pump gasoline.

EVIL ENERGY's PTFE-line fuel cell kits are built with E85 compatibility in mind — see the E85-compatible Fuel Cell Kits.

At a basic level, a fuel tank/fuel cell exists to:

  • Store fuel safely and protect it from dirt, moisture, and vapor loss
  • Support consistent fuel delivery to the engine at the correct pressure, even under acceleration, braking, or high-G cornering
  • Work with the vehicle's emissions system (on factory tanks) to control fuel vapor
  • Prevent leaks and fire risk in the event of an impact — this is the primary reason racing fuel cells exist

Beyond daily driving, fuel cells specifically are used for:

  • Racing and motorsports (drag, drift, circuit, off-road/baja)
  • Engine swaps where the stock tank no longer fits or flows correctly (e.g., LS swaps)
  • Auxiliary/extended-range fuel storage for trucks and overland builds
  • Custom and show vehicle builds where tank shape/size needs to be non-stock

This is a resistive-type sending unit with two wires:

  1. Before you start: Disconnect the vehicle battery to avoid short-circuits while wiring.
  2. Yellow wire (ground): Connect to a solid chassis ground. If the tank is plastic, do not rely on the tank body — run this wire directly to a metal chassis point or battery negative. A poor ground is the most common cause of an unstable or jumpy fuel gauge.
  3. Green wire (signal): Route to the signal input of a compatible fuel gauge or ECU.
  4. Before final install, confirm your gauge or ECU is rated for the 0–90Ω range — a mismatched range (e.g. 240–33Ω) will cause incorrect readings even with correct wiring.
  5. After wiring, reconnect the battery and check that the gauge reading changes smoothly as fuel level changes, with no flickering.

The standard method is a low-pressure air test with a soap solution, not a full fuel fill — this lets you catch leaks safely before fuel is ever in the tank.

Basic steps:

  1. Seal all openings (vent, fill, pickup, return, sender port) except one, where you'll introduce air.
  2. Pressurize gently — most tanks are tested in the 1–5 psi range, using a hand pump or regulated low-pressure air, not a shop air compressor at full pressure, which can damage or rupture the tank.
  3. Monitor a pressure gauge for a period of several minutes. A steady reading means no leak; a dropping reading means air is escaping somewhere.
  4. Spray a soapy water solution over all seams, welds, fittings, the sender gasket, and the fill plate. Bubbles forming at any point indicate the leak location.
  5. Re-check after any repair or fitting adjustment, since a tightened fitting can shift and create a new leak path.

For a new EVIL ENERGY fuel cell install, it's good practice to pressure-test the tank and check every AN fitting and the sender gasket for bubbles before final mounting — it's far easier to fix a leak on the bench than after the tank is bolted into the vehicle.

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