EVIL ENERGY 15/19 Gallon Aluminum Fuel Cell Gas Tank with Sending Unit (No Fuel Cell Foam)

Q: What is the best material for a fuel tank?

A: For performance, racing, and swap applications, aluminum is generally the best choice. It's roughly a third of the weight of steel, naturally corrosion-resistant (it forms a protective oxide layer instead of rusting), and dissipates heat quickly, which helps keep fuel temperature stable under hard driving. Steel is tougher against dents but adds significant weight and will rust once its coating is scratched. Plastic (HDPE) tanks are cheap and corrosion-proof but aren't practical for engine-bay heat, custom fittings, or repair.

EVIL ENERGY's fuel cells use 1060-H24 aluminum at 2.5mm wall thickness — thick enough to resist the vibration fatigue and dents that thinner budget tanks suffer, while staying light and fully TIG-weldable if it's ever damaged.

Q: How long do aluminum fuel tanks last?

A: A properly installed aluminum fuel tank can easily last 15–20+ years, since aluminum doesn't rust the way steel does. Real-world lifespan depends mainly on three things:

• Fuel type — running E85, methanol, or ethanol without alcohol-compatible seals and lines is the #1 cause of premature internal corrosion and fitting failure.
• Mounting and vibration — loose or improperly strapped tanks develop stress cracks at the seams over time. Use the tank's mounting tabs and solid brackets, not just straps.
• Storage conditions — long idle periods with old fuel or condensation inside accelerate corrosion (see the maintenance section below).

Q: How much do 15 gallons of fuel weigh?

A: 

• Gasoline: ~6.3 lbs/gallon → 15 gallons ≈ 94–95 lbs
• E85: ~6.5 lbs/gallon (ethanol is slightly denser) → 15 gallons ≈ 97–98 lbs
• Diesel: ~7.0 lbs/gallon → 15 gallons ≈ 105 lbs

Add the empty tank weight on top of this for your total mounted weight, which matters when sizing mounting brackets, straps, and chassis/trunk floor reinforcement — this is a full tank, not a trivial add of weight, especially in the rear of lightweight drift/track builds.

Q: Is anti-slosh foam included in all EVIL ENERGY fuel cells?

A: No. This 15/19 Gallon rectangular aluminum fuel cell is a tank-only build with no internal anti-slosh foam or fuel tank baffles — that's intentional, so you can assemble the exact AN8 fuel system your engine needs without foam restricting flow or fuel pickup placement. If you specifically want foam-filled fuel safety, EVIL ENERGY's cube-style fuel cells offer an integrated anti-slosh foam option — check that listing if foam is a requirement for your class/rulebook (many racing sanctioning bodies do require it).

Q: Can this Evil Energy 15/19 Gallon aluminum gas tank run E85?

A: Yes. Evil Energy 15/19 Gallon aluminum gas tank  tank itself is rated for gasoline, diesel, biodiesel, racing fuel, E85, methanol, and ethanol. But there's one important caveat: standard CPE fuel lines and standard seals are not compatible with alcohol-based fuels. To run E85, methanol, or ethanol safely and without leaks or line degradation, you must use PTFE-lined fuel hose and PTFE-compatible seals throughout the system, not just at the tank. Running E85 through the CPE line will cause the line to swell, crack, and eventually fail.

Q: Aluminum fuel cell maintenance — cleaning, storage between events, and preventing corrosion

A: Aluminum fuel cells are low-maintenance but not zero-maintenance, especially in track/drift/off-road use:

• Between events: If the car will sit for more than a few weeks, either keep the tank full (minimizes condensation and air space) or run it dry and cap all ports — a half-full tank sitting for months is the worst case for internal moisture buildup.
• Ethanol fuels: E85 is hygroscopic (it absorbs water from the air), so tanks running E85 should not be left sitting long-term with old fuel — drain or stabilize before off-season storage.
• Corrosion prevention: Keep the exterior clean of brake dust, track rubber, and standing water where it contacts the tank or mounting straps, and check strap/bracket contact points periodically for chafing through the polished finish, which is the aluminum's main defense point.
• Fittings: Periodically check AN fitting torque and inspect seals for hardening, especially on E85 setups.

Q: How do you clean an aluminum fuel tank?

A: Exterior:

1. Rinse loose dirt/track debris off with water.
2. Wash with a mild soap and water solution using a soft cloth or sponge — avoid abrasive pads, which will scratch the polished finish.
3. For brake dust or oxidation staining, use a dedicated aluminum cleaner/polish rather than harsh acidic cleaners, which can pit bare aluminum.
4. Dry fully and, optionally, apply a light coat of aluminum/metal polish to maintain the shine and add a protective barrier.

Interior (only when the tank is empty and depressurized):

1. Drain all fuel completely and let the tank vent/air out in a well-ventilated area away from ignition sources.
2. Flush with fresh fuel or an approved fuel-system cleaner through the fill/outlet ports, agitating and draining repeatedly until it runs clean.
3. For persistent debris or varnish, a mix of fuel-safe cleaner and small clean media (non-abrasive) can be shaken through and drained — avoid sand, gravel, or anything that can lodge in the AN ports.
4. Fully dry and re-cap before refilling. Never use water alone to clean the interior, since aluminum left wet internally can develop oxidation.

Q: How do you remove dents from an aluminum fuel tank?

A: For minor dents in a fuel cell like this (2.5mm wall aluminum), the safest approach is paintless dent techniques that don't require heat or cutting into the tank:

1. Empty and depressurize the tank first: never work on a tank that still contains fuel or vapor.
2. For shallow dents, gentle pressure from inside (if access allows through a fitting port) or a suction dent-puller on the outside can pull the panel back close to flat.
3. Light, controlled tapping with a rubber or plastic mallet on a dolly/backing block can reshape small dents on flat panel sections.
4. Avoid excessive force on seams or near welds — that's where stress cracks start.

For anything beyond a shallow cosmetic dent, or a dent near a seam/weld, it's safer to have a fabricator assess it rather than risk stressing the tank's structural welds — a compromised seam under fuel pressure is not something to gamble on.

Q: How to do a leak test for a new fuel cell before installing it?

A: Even a brand-new tank is worth testing on the bench before it goes in the car — shipping/handling can occasionally loosen a fitting, and it's far easier to catch a weld pinhole or a bad cap seal now than after it's mounted and full of fuel.

1. Cap every port. Thread plugs into both AN8 fuel ports and the AN8 vent port, leaving one port free for your test fitting, and make sure the screw-on filler cap is fully seated on its gasket.
2. Low-pressure air + soap test (recommended). Connect a regulated air source through the free port and pressurize to 2–3 PSI only — never test with full shop air pressure, as this tank isn't built to hold high PSI and over-pressurizing can distort the seams or blow a cap off. Brush a soap-and-water solution over every weld seam, the filler cap, and each AN fitting; any leak shows up as bubbles immediately.
3. Water-fill test (no air source needed). Fill the tank completely through the filler neck, let it sit for 30–60 minutes, and inspect every seam, weld, port, and the cap area for weeping or drips. This is a good baseline check but won't reveal a fine pinhole as reliably as the air/soap method.
4. Check the cap and gasket specifically. The screw-on aluminum cap depends on its gasket seating evenly — if you see leakage there, remove the cap, check the gasket is clean and seated correctly, and re-tighten by hand before assuming the tank itself is defective.
5. Reseal your own fittings on install. Once you thread your own AN fittings into the ports, use fuel-rated thread sealant (or PTFE tape only on NPT-style adapters, never on the AN flare face itself) and torque to spec — a loose fitting installed by the customer, not a factory weld defect, is by far the most common cause of a "leaking new tank."
6. If you find a genuine weld leak, stop and contact EVIL ENERGY support at support@ievilenergy.com with photos before attempting any repair yourself. 

Q: How to repair and fix a hole in an aluminum fuel tank?

A: Safety first. This is the one repair that shouldn't be a DIY job unless you know proper tank-purging procedure: any welding, brazing, or heat applied to a tank that has ever held fuel carries a real explosion risk from residual vapor, even if the tank looks and smells empty. Fuel vapor in an "empty" tank is often more explosive than a full one because of the air/vapor ratio.

Correct process:

1. Drain and purge properly. A professional-grade purge means either steam-cleaning the tank or filling it completely with water (displacing all vapor) or inert gas (like CO2/nitrogen) before any heat is applied. Simply draining and airing it out is not sufficient for welding.
2. TIG weld the repair. A 1060-series aluminum is weldable with a standard aluminum TIG setup and matching filler rod; this should be done by someone experienced with aluminum fuel tank repair.
3. Pressure/leak test after the repair (e.g., low-pressure air submerged in water, or a fuel-safe leak detection method) before returning it to service.
4. For a hole from a stress crack rather than an impact, also inspect nearby welds and mounting points — a crack often signals a vibration or mounting issue that will recur if not addressed alongside the repair.

If you're not equipped to purge and weld aluminum safely, it's both cheaper and far safer to replace the fuel cell than to risk a DIY repair on a tank that will sit inches from your fuel system and, often, your exhaust.